Wisconsin Certification ( Chapter 440.97 ) enacted in 1998. Under Wisconsin’s law, home inspectors must register with the State and pass an examination approved by the Department of Regulation and Licensing. The law instructs the Department to consider the use of an examination modeled after the National Home Inspector Examination. The law also requires that a home inspector perform a “reasonably competent and diligent” inspection; however, the inspection is not required to be technically exhaustive.

West Virginia Certification (Title 87-05) enacted in 2006. West Virginia law, “Certification of Home Inspectors,” establishes procedures to be followed to assure that consumers of home inspection services can rely on the competence of inspectors, as determined by educational and experience requirements and testing.

As an initial requirement and qualification for certification as a home inspector, every applicant:
1) shall have passed the National Home Inspector Examination;
2) shall either present proof of having conducted business as an inspector for three years prior to August 1, 2006, or proof of satisfactory completion of at least 80 hours of instruction;
3) must have successfully completed high school or its equivalent; and
4) shall present proof of, and shall maintain, general liability insurance in the amount of not less than $250,000.00.

For more information, contact the West Virginia Association of Home Inspectors .

West Virginia Home Inspector

David L. Corey, Sr., CRI
Landmark Inspections, Inc.
Falling Waters, WV 25419
(304) 274-9000
bishopdlc@comcast.net
NAHI CRI
MD# 29260 WV# HI12740178-0607

Michael D. Reel, CRI
Integrity Home Inspections, LLC
Williamstown, WV 26187
(304) 375-3829
mdrihi@suddenlink.net
http://www.wvhomeinspections.net
NAHI CRI

R. Scott Devers, CRI
On The Level, Professional Home Inspection
Harpers Ferry, WV 25425
(304) 876-2006
levelinspections@juno.com
http://www.onlineonthelevel.com
NAHI CRI

Washington Licensure ( SB 6606) enacted in 2008. Requires the licensure of home inspectors and establishes various qualifications for licensure. Licenses will be issued beginning July 1, 2009. Beginning Septembers 1, 2009, inspectors will be required to have a license to inspect. Anyone who can prove he has worked as a home inspector for at least two years and has conducted at least 100 home inspections may apply to the board before September 1, 2009 for licensure without meeting the instruction and training requirements.

The bill creates the Home Inspector Advisory Licensing Board, consisting of seven members, six who must be active inspectors and one who must be currently teaching in a home inspector education program.

The Director of the Department of Licensing has the authority to adopt rules; administer licensing exams and adopt exams prepared by other entities and adopt standards of professional conduct, practice and ethics. The director has the authority to suspend licenses.

To obtain a license, an applicant must meet the following requirements:

• Proof of a minimum of 120 hours of classroom instruction approved by the board
• Proof of up to 40 hours of field training supervised by a licensed inspector
• Passage of the psychometrically valid, reliable and legally defensible written exam required by the board

The term of a home inspector’s license shall be two years. License renewal would be contingent upon the home inspector’s successful completion of at least 24 hours of continuing education every two years.

For more information contact the Washington State Department of Licensing at (360) 664-8885.

Washington Home Inspector

Norman D. Shackelford, CRI
Quality First Real Estate Inspection Company
Vancouver, WA 98662
(360) 260-0575
q-1@comcast.net
http://www.q1inspect.com
NAHI CRI
WA #450

David A. McPhee, CRI
RWHZ LLC Dba Pillar To Post Professional Home Inspection
Seattle, WA 98115
(206) 522-5141
dmcpheeptp@aol.com
http://www.ptphome/nwkingcounty
NAHI CRI

Thomas A. Browning, CRI
Real Property Investigators, LLC/dba: Pillar To Post
Sammamish, WA 98074
(425) 836-5435
tom.browning@pillartopost.com
http://www.pillartopost-sammamish.com
NAHI CRI
WA# 228

James Fronsdahl, CRI
Associated Inspection Firm, Inc.
Vancouver, WA 98682
(360) 772-3336
james@inspectionfirm.com
http://www.portlandorhomeinspection.com
NAHI CRI
WA# 0290 OR# 1066

Stephen D. Cancler, CRI
Full House Home Inspection Services
Seattle, WA 98107
(206) 784-7100
fullhouseinspections@hotmail.com
http://www.fullhouseinspections.com
NAHI CRI

Paul A. North
Pillar To Post
Port Orchard, WA 98366
(360) 536-2296
paul.north@pillartopost.com
http://www.ptphome.com/kitsap
Regular Member
WA #219

Justin Nickelsen
Nickelsen Home Inspections, LLC
Vancouver, WA 98661
(866) 284-3151
(360) 907-7648
justin@nickelsenhomeinspections.com
http://www.portlandoregonhomeinspection.com
Regular Member
WA# 415 OR# CCB172294, OCHI1173

Robert S. Crawford
B.C. Inspections LLC
Kennewick, WA 99336
(509) 396-7829
bob@bcinspectionsllc.com
Associate Member

Tyler J. Conkle
Vanguard Inspection Services
Sequim, WA 98382
(866) 681-3541
(360) 681-3541
vanguard@olypen.com
Associate Member

Larry Fetter
BISON Inspection Services
Renton, WA 98058
(253) 569-9847
lfetter@bisonhi.com
Associate Member

Bob Cogswell
SaBo Home Services Dba HomeTeam Inspection Service
Tacoma, WA 98422
(253) 235-5678
HT646@hometeamusinspection.ca
Associate Member

David A. Jagosh
Pacific Northwest Home Inspections
Puyallup, WA 98372
(253) 632-5174
davejagosh@comcast.net
Associate Member
WA# 658

Warren Larsen
On Site Home Inspections
Marysville, WA 98271
(425) 508-7375
warrenslarsen@hotmail.com
Associate Member

Patrick Morton
U.S. Inspect, LLC
Federal Way, WA 98023
(253) 380-9138
pmorton@usinspect.com
http://www.usinspect.com/seattle-metro
Associate – Multiple

Jo H. McConnell
U.S. Inspect, LLC
Auburn, WA 98001
(888) 874-6773
(253) 315-0322
jmcconne@usinspect.com
http://www.usinspect.com/auburn
Associate – Multiple

Kim L. Peters
Premier Home Inspection
Fox Island, WA 98333
(253) 861-1067
kpeters@premierhomeinspectionwa.com
Associate Member

Elton Ko
Vancouver, WA 98687
(503) 395-8570
emchomeinspection@gmail.com
Associate Member

Texas Licensure ( Title 113A, Article 6573a, Section 23) enacted in 1991. The Texas licensure law, the Real Estate License Act, provides for the examination of home inspectors and established continuing education requirements. These and other requirements are contained in the Texas Administrative Code, Subchapter R, Rules. The law also requires home inspector applicants to work as apprentice inspectors under the supervision of a professional licensed home inspector. If an applicant is unable to obtain an apprenticeship, educational course work and an examination can be substituted. Home inspectors are regulated by the Texas Real Estate Licensing Board.

Tennessee Licensure ( 2005 Public Act Chapter 65 enacted in 2006) Any person who applies for licensure as a home inspector must submit an application on a form as prescribed by the commissioner. The application shall be accompanied by the fee specified in Section 4.

Applicants shall furnish evidence satisfactory to the commissioner that the applicant:

1) is at least 18 years old,
2) has graduated from high school or earned a general education development certificate,
3) has not been convicted of a crime that has a direct bearing on the applicant’s ability to perform competently and fully as a licensed inspector,
4) is not the subject of a disciplinary or enforcement action by another state or a local jurisdiction in connection with the performance of home inspections or the licensing or certification of home inspectors,
5) has successfully completed 90 hours of a commissioner-approved training program or course of study involving the performance of home inspections and the preparation of home inspection reports,
6) has passed a commissioner-approved competency examination administered by the state or an entity selected by the state, and
7) has obtained a certificate of insurance in an amount required by the commissioner for general liability as well as errors and omission to cover all activities contemplated under this chapter.

During the first 180 days after the effective date of this act (July 1, 2006), the commissioner may issue a license to an applicant who meets the requirements stipulated in the law if the applicant furnishes evidence satisfactory to the commissioner that the applicant:

1) has been principally engaged in the performance of home inspections in this state for at least two years, and
2) has complete at least 150 home inspections for compensation in the applicant’s career.

For more information contact the Home Inspector Licensing Program at 615-253-1743 or fax 615-741-6470 or e-mail Carol.Kennedy@state.tn.us.

Tennessee Home Inspector

James M. Dainty, CRI
WIN Home Inspection of Cookeville
Cookeville, TN 38501
(931) 520-0509
jdaintywin@netscape.net
http://www.wini.com
NAHI CRI

Alan R. Chase, CRI
Chase Home Inspections
Knoxville, TN 37721
(865) 688-7638
ChaseHomeInspections@gmail.com
http://www.ChaseHomeInspections.com
NAHI CRI
TN# 0012

Generally, the kitchen is the most used room in any home: it has all the cooking appliances, running water, and there always seem to be plenty of family activities going on in the kitchen. Many things must be taken into account during a kitchen inspection, therefore expect a home inspector to spend a lot of time testing and inspecting the kitchen.

Basic Items to be Inspected During a Kitchen Inspection

• Oven/Range – inspect and report on the kind of range, check for physical damage and note whether it is gas or electric. Check to see if all of the cooking top eyes and the oven are working properly.
• Exhaust fan/Range hood – if there is a range hood, report its presence and check to see if it really works.
• Refrigerator – inspect it for proper cooling and check whether the refrigerator and freezer doors are sealing correctly. A leaky supply line to the ice maker is one of the main conditions found around the refrigerator.
• Sink – check its condition and make sure the drain pipe is not leaking under the kitchen sink. Check the hot- and cold-water flow at the kitchen faucet and make sure the spray works. Record any leaks on your worksheet for later correction.
• Dishwasher - make sure it is effectively connected to the cabinets as well as ran through a cycle. Check it for water leaks as well.
• Microwave oven – if there is a built-in microwave over, check it to make sure it is operating and properly secured.
• Cabinets – inspect them for poor craftsmanship and check their condition. Look at all of the doors and drawers to inspect their overall condition and ease of operation.
• Counter tops – if there are Formica and laminate tops, check them for loose or damaged end caps or burnt areas, especially near the cooking equipment. All solid surfaces which can include granite and quartz should be checked for broken areas. If there is a bar installation, make sure the hang over part it properly reinforced.
• Electric – make sure all outlets along the kitchen counter or anywhere next to water are GFCI protected. Inspect each outlet in the kitchen and if you find one that is not GFCI protected, record the condition on your worksheet for later correction.
• Floor - the kitchen floor gets lots of traffic, and it is generally exposed to a considerable amount of water, grease and abuse. Look for damaged vinyl floor coverings or cracked tiles.
• Walls and ceiling – inspect their condition and list it in the report.
• Light fixtures – check their condition and operation and record any deficiency.
• Garbage disposal – Inspect it when water is running, and also check the protective rubber insert inside the drain to make sure it is in good condition to stop things from falling down into any disposal.
• Heat source - report the presence of any heat register and check its operation
• Windows – check their overall condition, record any issues on your worksheet.

The typical capacity of such indirect-fired water heaters is about 40 gallons, and whether or not there is adequate supply will depend on both the capacity and the recovery rate of the unit. The actual rate will depend on the Btu rating of the boiler that feeds the heat exchanger.

The indirect-fired storage water heater uses its own circulator pump to work off the heating system as a separate zone. According to manufacturers, about 15-29 gallons of domestic hot water are removed before the zone aquastat calls for hot water from the boiler. With a high recovery rate, the boiler firings will be kept to a minimum.

Indirect-Fired Water Heaters Inspection – General Tips

When performing an indirect-fired water heaters inspection, either raise the thermostat setting to HOT or let the hot water run until the boiler fires. To determine whether the pump is operating, touch the water supply to the heater before and after the boiler fires. The pipe should get hot.

In addition, check for signs of leakage around the base of the unit, and also make sure there is a pressure-temperature relief valve mounted directly on the tank casing. If you adjust the thermostat to activate the circulator pump and boiler, remember to reset it.

If the boiler is functioning properly, but the domestic water still does not get very hot, there may be a lime buildup on the heat exchanger, acting as an insulator and inhibiting the heat transfer. In this case, the coil needs cleaning. If the problem persists even after cleaning, the coil may require replacement. An Indirect-Fired Water Heaters Inspection should be performed regularly.

Moving on to the boiler, check the joints around the tankless heater mounting plate, because this is a vulnerable place for leakage. If you notice water stains and deposits around the joint, maintenance is needed even if you do not see actual water dripping. The deposits tend to self-seal the leak, but this is only temporary. The deposits can loosen at any time, reactivating the leak. Very often, tightening the mounting bolts around the joint or replacing the gasket around it will fix the problem. Check the inlet and outlet pipes to the heater and the mixing valve, if any, for any signs of past or current leakage.

The temperature of the boiler water that heats the domestic hot water is controlled by an aquastat. Open one of the hot water faucets to check the operation of the aquastat. At one point, the temperature of the boiler will drop to a point where the aquastat will cause the oil or gas burner to fire. Tankless coils are typically designed to operate with a boiler-water temperature of about 200 degrees F.

When the burner fires, look at the boiler-mounted thermometer. If the temperature of the boiler water is less than 180 degrees F, the aquastat may need adjustment. In some houses, however, the aquastat is intentionally set lower, resulting in a lower hot-water temperature.

Lastly, look for a relief valve that is both temperature- and pressure-sensitive. It should be located on the hot-water outlet line of the tankless coil. If there is a storage tank associated with the tankless coil, the relief valve might be located in the tank.

A temperature-pressure-sensitive relief valve is a necessary safety control, and is normally factory-set to discharge when the domestic hot water reaches a scalding temperature or very high pressure. If you cannot find a relief valve, record the condition on your worksheet for later installation.

Water Heater Replacement – Projected Life Span

The lining in the tank is typically vitreous enamel (glass), but it can also be concrete (stone) or copper. In order to minimize tank corrosion, most heaters are equipped with a “sacrificial” magnesium anode rod suspended inside the tank. The electrochemical action that causes corrosion takes lace between the water and the anode rather than between the water and the tank, thus extending the life of the tank.

Moreover, there are also some tanks that are constructed so that the magnesium anode can be inspected and replaced if necessary. Tank water heaters can be either gas- or oil-fired or electric.

At the top of the tank, many water heaters have a hot-water outlet and cold-water inlet fittings, with clear markings: Hot and Cold, respectively. Nevertheless, it is surprising how many heaters have a reversed water-line installation.

To determine whether the installation is reversed, touch a pipe about four feet away from the unit and compare it to the hot outlet fitting on top of the tank. A reversed connection installation results in an inefficient operation or the heater. There is a cold-water inlet tap at the top, however the cold water does not enter the tank at the top.

Inside the tank, there is a pipe (dip tube) connected to the inlet fitting that carries the cold water to the bottom of the tank. The hot water tends to rise above the cold water, therefore the hot water is normally at the top of the tank, where it flows through the outlet fitting.

Tank Water Heaters Inspection – Relief Valve

All water heaters must have a relief valve, both temperature- and pressure-sensitive. A relief valve that only responds to pressure cannot offer adequate protection. Should the tank rupture as a result of a high-temperature failure, the superheated water contained therein will flash into the steam, releasing high energy in an explosion. If it is sensitive to both temperature and pressure, the relief valve can avoid this problem.

In addition, the relief valve should have an extension that will allow it to discharge into a recipient (such as bucket) on the floor. In some cases, the relief valve does not have this extension. This is a potential health hazard, because a person standing near the water heater when the relief valve discharges risks being scalded.

Sometimes, there is an extension on the relief valve, leading to a sink or floor drain located near the water heater or in the next room. In this case, make sure the diameter of the relief-valve extension pipe is the same as the outlet opening of the relief valve. If the extension pipe is smaller in diameter, it will reduce the discharge capability of the valve, thus also reducing its effectiveness as a safety device. Moreover, for efficient operation,  schedule a Tank Water Heaters Inspection at least once a year.

Electrical Heating System Inspection – Avoid Heat Loss

The conversion of electrical energy to heat is 100 percent, unlike oil and gas energy. Because there are no exhaust gases, there is no heat lost to the exhaust gas like there is with other systems. Moreover, this system has no fuel combustion, therefore there is no need for a chimney.

When it comes to the costs of installation, electrical resistance coils are less expensive than oil and gas burners. For most parts of the country, however, they are more expensive to operate. In order to minimize the operating expense, electrically heated homes must be properly insulated. In evaluating the cost of heating a house, ask the homeowner to show you the bills for the year.

For efficient operation, all heaters must be in perfect condition. If they are not, even if the house is properly insulated, your bills will not get smaller. Once you become the new home owner, make sure you schedule an Electrical Heating System Inspection at least once a year.

Oil Heating Systems Inspection – Types of Oil Burners

The oil burner will usually be either an older conventional unit or a high-efficiency flame-retention burner. Both burners look relatively similar, however there is a considerable difference in the flame pattern and overall efficiency.

The flammable mixture of oil and air a conventional burner produces is inconsistent. Some parts of the mixture are rich in fuel, while others do not have enough. Consequently, these burners draw in a large quantity of air so that the fuel-rich portion of the flammable mixture will burn completely, thus reducing the level of smoke produced.

In order for the oil burner to operate efficiently, the proper draft over the firebox is very important. To ensure the proper draft, most oil burners have a draft regulator mounted in the exhaust stack near the boiler or furnace. Basically, this regulator is a small swinging damper that can be adjusted to open an inch or two when the burner is firing. If the opening is shut, it affects the efficiency of operation and result in greater fuel consumption, in addition to making the regulators inoperative. Moreover, the section of the exhaust stack between the boiler or furnace and the chimney must have an upward pitch to ensure the proper draft.

The pot-type burner is another type of oil burner, and can occasionally be found in central heating systems. Because it contains few moving parts, it operates quietly. The unit basically consists of a pot containing a pool of oil, and a control for regulating the oil flow to the pot. A small fan is used to introduce the air needed to produce a flammable mixture. Once this mixture starts burning, the heat produced vaporizes the oil mixed with the air, thus maintaining the burning operation.

The initial cost of this burner is less than the costs of a high-pressure gun-type burner, but for efficient operation it requires a more expensive, high-grade oil that vaporizes easily.

Regardless of type, all oil burners require periodic inspection and maintenance, such as cleaning, lubrication and adjustment to ensure an efficient soot- and odor-free operation. An oil heating system inspection should be performed at least once a year, and during the inspection the exhaust gas should be examined to determine whether the burner is operating at maximum efficiency.

Usually, the company that supplies the oil also provides preventive maintenance to the oil burner. For an additional fee, oil companies may also issue a maintenance contract in which they agree to maintain and tune the system, as well as provide emergency service.

If you sign a maintenance contract with your oil company, make sure you know precisely what will be maintained. Some companies will inspect and maintain just the oil burner, and none of the peripheral equipment or controls. To make sure your oil burner is operating at maximum efficiency, schedule an Oil Heating Systems Inspection at least once a year.

A steam-hot water system may function as a two-zone system, with the main portion of the house heated by a steam system, and the remaining portion of the house heated by a forced-hot-water system. To achieve this, the distribution pipe for the hot-water system is tapped directly off the portion of the steam boiler that was below the water level, while a pump circulates the hot water. The thermostat for this zone controls the pump and the burner. In addition, an aquastat temperature control for the boiler water prevents it from generating steam when the main zone is not calling for heat.

A hydro-air heating system is basically a hot-water-warm-air system. This type of hybrid system is gaining increasingly more popularity, particularly in large homes. It consists of an air handler (similar in appearance to a blower compartment or a furnace), a hot water boiler and a duct system. Hot water from the boiler is pumped through a series of tubular coils mounted above the fan in the blower compartment. As air flows over the coil, it is heated and blown through the duct system do different areas of the house.

Among the greatest advantages of this system is that you can easily add a number of separate zones to the boiler piping – one zone to an indirect fired water heater, another to a newly added room and a third to another air handler, for instance.

In addition, another advantage is that the same duct system can be used for the air-conditioning. Moreover, since no combustion takes place inside the air handler, it eliminates the risk of combustion gases being distributed throughout the house because of a cracked heat exchanger.

Hybrid Heating Systems Inspection – Safety Measures

In larger residential buildings with more than one air handler, at least one of them is usually located in the attic. Should a prolonged power failure occur, the water in the coils is subjected to freezing. If the house you are interested in has such a unit in the attic, check to determine whether antifreeze has been added to the system as a safety measure. Even after the purchase is final, schedule a Hybrid Heating Systems Inspection at least once  a year.

South Dakota Licensure

Applicants for a license as a home inspector shall meet the following requirements:
1) Good moral character;
2) Completion of high school or equivalency;
3) Employment as a registered home inspector for no less than one year and performance of not less than one hundred home inspections for compensation;
4) Successful completion of the National Home Inspector Examination to assess minimum competence.

Applicants for registration as a home inspector shall meet the following requirements:
1) Good moral character;
2) Completion of high school or equivalency;
3) Successful completion of an approved course of study;
4) Successful completion of registration exam.

For more information, contact the Real Estate Commission at (605) 773-3600 phone or (605) 773-4356 fax.

South Dakota Home Inspector

Bill Hone
Sentry Home Inspection, Inc.
Sioux Falls, SD 57106
(605) 361-1301
sentry@sio.midco.net
Regular Member

Gas Heating Systems Inspection – General Tips

In a gas heating system, gas is supplied at low pressure to the boiler through an automatic gas valve. In turn, the valve is controlled by the thermostat or, if the system is also used to generate domestic hot water, an aquastat.

At the burner, a pilot light ignites the gas mixed with air. A safety control called thermocouple is associated with the pilot light, closing the gas valve when the pilot light goes off. The thermocouple basically converts heat from the pilot light into a small electric current that keeps an electrically operated valve in the main gas line open.

Some gas heating systems are also equipped with a self-energizing control unit called Powerpile, that enables them to operate in the event of a power outage. This feature is particularly desirable for those areas prone to electrical power failures. The control unit consists of a special pilot-thermocouple assembly, a gas valve and a thermostat. It can be used on steam, hot-water and warm-air systems. With a self-energizing control unit, a steam system will operate normally during a power failure, while a forced-hot-water or warm-air system will function as a gravity system.

Keep in mind that all gas-burning equipment must have the American Gas Association’s seal of approval, indicating that a similar unit has been tested for safety. During the gas heating systems inspection, look for the seal. Usually, it is located on a plate mounted on the front of the boiler or furnace.

In addition, check the gas meter to see if it is adequately sized to supply gas to the heating system and domestic water during peak periods. If the house originally had a gas-fired water heater and an oil-fired heating system, the gas meter may be inadequately sized. In some cases, when the oil-fired system is converted to or replaced by a gas-fired system, the installer omits to notify the utility company to replace the meter, which was sized to supply gas just for the water heater and kitchen stove.

South Carolina Licensure (Title 40, Chapter 59, Article 3) enacted in 1996. South Carolina law requires any person desiring to be a licensed home inspector to file with the South Carolina Residential Builders Commission. A home inspector must show to the satisfaction of the Commission that he is currently certified as a home inspector by an organization recognized by the Commission, that he has a minimum of one year of experience as a home inspector under the supervision of a licensed inspector, and that he has performed a minimum of fifty residential inspections.

For more information, including Rules and Regulations, contact the Department of Labor, Licensing and Regulation, Residential Builders Commission (803) 896-4621 main,  (803) 896-4696 for Home Inspectors.
www.llr.state.sc.us

South Carolina Home Inspector

James H. Gribben, Jr., CRI
Gribben Property Inspections LLC Dba WIN Home Inspection Myrtle Beach
Surfside Beach, SC 29587
(843) 238-3454
jgribben@wini.com
http://www.wini.com/myrtlebeach
NAHI CRI
SC# RBI 2068

Adam McClusky, CRI
Property Inspection Service, Inc.
Hilton Head Island, SC 29925
(843) 816-0601
info@hhipropertyinspector.com
http://www.hhipropertyinspector.com
NAHI CRI
SC# 627

Gregory S. Vieau, CRI
WIN Home Inspection – Foothills
Anderson, SC 29625
(864) 225-9200
gvieau@wini.com
http://www.wini.com
NAHI CRI

A Steam Heating Systems Inspection may not be as popular nowadays as it used to be, because such systems are no longer used in new residential construction. However, steam heating systems can still be found in many older homes. In some of these older homes, the boiler and its associated controls may actually be relatively new.

The boiler used in this system is mostly the same as the one used in a hot-water system. Usually, it is constructed of either cast iron or steel. If you find such a gauge during your heating systems inspection, the boiler is being used to generate steam.

Steam Heating Systems Inspection – Distribution Piping and Radiators

While the hot-water system is completely filled with water, the steam boiler is only partially filled with water (about three quarters), depending on the size and type. The remaining portion of the boiler, the distribution piping and the radiators are filled with air. Once the system is fired, the water heats up until it boils. The steam formed rises in the pipes without the help of a pump or fan, pushing the air ahead of it as it moves along. The air from the pipes and radiators is then dissipated into the rooms through air-vent valves that are located on the radiator or near the end of the steam main, depending on the piping configuration.

When the steam comes in contact with the cool radiator surface, it condenses back into water, giving up its heat in the process. The resulting water flows back into the boiler for reheating. If the air cannot be evacuated from a radiator because a blockage in an air vent, a pressure will build up within the radiator and prevent the steam from entering. In this case, the radiator will not heat up. Replacing the air vent will correct the condition.

Rhode Island

Licensure (Chapter 65.1) enacted in 2000. Rhode Island law creates a home inspector licensing law and requires that all home inspectors be licensed. Home inspectors would be required to maintain $250,000 of liability insurance, pass the National Home Inspector Examination, and abide by standards of practice and a code of ethics. NOTE: This law is currently not funded.

For more information, contact the RI Contractors’ Registration Board at (401) 222-1268 phone or (401) 222-2599 fax.

Rhode Island Home Inspector

Lane W. Ukura
U.S. Inspect, LLC
Bristol, RI 02809
(888) 874-6773
(401) 255-0726
lukura@usinspect.com
http://www.usinspect.com/bristol
Regular – Multi

Walter H. Richter, III
HomePro Inspections of RI, Corp.
Hope, RI 02831
(401) 474-2007
inspector@homeprorhodeisland.com
http://www.homeprori.com
Associate Member

A Central Heating Controls Inspection os designed to ensure all controls are operating properly, at maximum efficiency. In a forced-hot-water heating system, the heating zones can have either a separate circulating pump for each zone or a single circulating pump servicing all zones. When there is a single pump, each zone is controlled by an electrically activated valve which is in turn controlled by a thermostat. When one of the zone thermostats calls for heat, it opens the valve for the respective zone, fires the burner that heats the boiler water and starts the circulating pump. If another zone thermostat calls for heat after the system is operational, it simply opens the zone valve, allowing the hot water to circulate through that zone.

When it comes to boilers used in hot-water systems, most of them can be equipped so that they will also heat the domestic water. When a heating-system boiler produces domestic hot water as well, the associated burner must fire all year long, not just during the heating season. In this case, the thermostat will not be controlling the burner, but only the circulating pump. The burner will be activated by an aquastat that controls the boiler water temperature.

Central Heating Controls Inspection – Relief Valve

As a safety measure, all forced-hot-water heating systems must be equipped with automatic pressure-relief valves. To help ensure its effectiveness, the relief valve should be mounted directly on the boiler. While many systems have a relief valve mounted in the boiler feed line, several feet away from the burner, this is an unsuitable location because over the years the lime or scale buildup in the fees line can isolate the valve from the boiler. Should this happen, the valve would completely ineffective in the event of a pressure buildup. If the heating system does not have such a boiler-mounted pressure relief valve, record the condition on your worksheet for later installation.

Lastly, all forced-hot-water systems should have a pressure and a temperature gauge. Newer systems have a combination valve designed to measure both temperature and pressure, but older systems usually have a separate gauge and a pencil-type thermometer attached to the boiler. Either way, a Central Heating Controls Inspection should be scheduled at least once a year.

Pennsylvania Trade Practice Act ( Act 114 of 2000, Title 68 enacted in 2000). The law in Pennsylvania provides a uniform definition for the term “home inspection” and for a national home inspection association. It establishes that a home inspector shall conduct their inspection in accordance with the standards of practice set forth by a professional home inspection trade association such as ASHI or the National Association of Home Inspectors. It further outlines consumer remedies as they relate to a home inspection, and establishes penalties for misrepresentations of fact in an inspection report. Under the law, home inspectors are required to maintain errors and omissions and general liability insurance with coverage of not less than $100,000 per occurrence and $500,000 in the aggregate. The law is scheduled to take effect in December 2001.

Heating Distribution Piping Inspection – Types of Arrangements

Series loop is the simplest and least expensive piping arrangement to install, and is generally used in smaller homes where room-by-room radiator adjustments are not necessary for balancing heat distribution. The radiators in a series loop, usually baseboard convectors, are an integral part of the supply piping. Consequently, if a radiator is shut off the flow throughout the system will be stopped.

In the series loop arrangement the temperature of the water entering the last radiator will be considerably less than it was when it entered the first radiator. In order to minimize the difference in temperature and produce a more uniform heat distribution, the heating system for larger homes is usually designed to divide the house into two or more heating zones. In this case, each zone has a separate piping configuration and either has a separate circulating pump or shares a common pump with the other zones, but has a separate thermostatically controlled valve in the main supply line.

In a one-pipe distribution arrangement, a single pipe makes a complete circuit from the boiler and back, serving as both the supply and the return. The radiators are attached to the supply pipe by two risers – one connected to each end of the radiator. Also, each radiator will have a shutoff valve located at the inlet riser so it can be shut without affecting the water flow in the supply main. This system can therefore provide room-by-room heat control, but as with the series loop, there is a significant temperature difference between the water entering the first and the last radiators. Larger radiators are often installed to compensate for the cooler water entering the radiators down stream, emitting heat comparable to the smaller ones closer to the boiler.

Finally, the two-pipe distribution configuration is the most costly to install, but it also overcomes the deficiencies of the other two arrangements. There are two main pipes – one for the supply and the other for the return, and the inlet and outlet ports of the radiators are attached to the mains by risers. The main advantage of this configuration is that the cool water leaving the radiator does not mix with the hot water flowing through the supply main, consequently there is a very slight temperature difference between the water entering the first and last radiators.

Both the one- and two-pipe configurations will provide heat control for individual rooms if the radiator shutoff valve is manually closed or partially closed, however the configurations are also used in homes with zone heating, which is automatic. In this case, all you need to do is set the thermostat to the desired temperature for that specific section of the house. Regardless of the type of arrangement installed, a Heating Distribution Piping Inspection should be performed regularly.

Oregon Certification (ORS 701.350, 355) enacted in 1997. The Oregon Home Inspection Certification Law requires individuals who perform home inspections of two or more components to be certified by the Oregon Construction Contractors Board (CCB). An individual must meet minimum training and/or experience requirements to take a comprehensive test, pass the test and complete continuing education courses to renew certification. The Oregon Standards of Practice, Standards of Behavior and Definitions are adopted from the ASHI Standards with Oregon amendments; Oregon acknowledges the assistance of ASHI in developing its standards and definitions. Each certified home inspector must be an owner or employee of a business licensed with the CCB. Businesses that perform home inspections must be licensed with the CCB in categories that require either a $10,000 or $15,000 bond and either a $300,000 or $500,000 liability insurance policy. Amendment to current law (ORS 710.35, Chapter 812). The amendment to current law provides an exemption for a home inspector acting within the scope of his/her certification or licensure, from licensure as a real estate appraiser.

Pressure Switch, Gauge, and Relief Valve Inspection

To check the switch, simply turn on a faucet, then look at the pressure gauge and watch the pressure drop until the pump is activated by the low limit. Have someone turn off the faucet while you watch the pressure building up on the pressure gauge. The pump should stop when reaching the upper limit. If it doesn’t stop or it stops at too high a pressure, a problem exists. However, if the pressure gauge is broken the test cannot be performed. If you find an inoperable pressure gauge, record the condition on your worksheet for later replacement.

Standard tanks are typically rated for a maximum pressure of 75 psi. As a precautionary measure, the storage tank or associated piping should have an automatic pressure relief valve. In fact, in many jurisdictions this is a code requirement. The relief valve will prevent problems associated with excessive pressure buildup should the pressure switch malfunction and allow the pump to keep running.

Check the pressure gauge to see if the system will hold pressure when the pump is not running and no water is being used. If the pointer on the gauge drops, there is a leak. If no sings of leakage have been detected during the plumbing inspection, the leak is probably between the storage tank and the well. Record the condition on your worksheet for later correction.

Oklahoma Licensure (Section 858-622 of Title 59) enacted in 2001. The “Oklahoma Home Inspection Licensing Act” provides for the licensing of home inspectors through the State Board of Health, and a newly created Committee of Home Inspector Examiners (Committee). The Committee is charged with advising the Board of Health in establishing rules relating to:

Water from the tank is forced into the house supply pipe whenever there is a demand at one of the plumbing fixtures throughout the house. If the tank is functioning properly, it provides a water reservoir that balances the capacity of the pump against the usage demand, thus preventing excessive short-cycling (starting and stopping too rapidly) which can cause switch and motor problems.

The water in the storage tank is under pressure, but since water cannot be compressed, the tank must be partially filled with air in order to function properly. In time, the water in the tank absorbs the air and the tank eventually becomes filled entirely with water. When this occurs, the tank starts “waterlogging”, and the pump performs as if no tank were used. Consequently, any small request for water, even filling a glass, will cause the pump to cycle rapidly. In turn, this will cause premature wear on the pump, motor and switch.

The pressure range normally used for such well-pumping systems is between 20 to 40 or between 30 to 50 pounds per square inch (psi). If there is a waterlogged condition and there is a demand for water, you will hear the pump starting and stopping rapidly if it is the jet- or piston-type.

When a submersible pump is used, however, you will not hear it start and stop. In this case, you can determine whether a waterlogging condition exists because the pressure switch will be clicking on and off. In addition, the pointer on the pressure gauge will be fluctuating between the high- and low-pressure limits.

If you find a waterlogging condition during your storage tanks inspection, record it on your worksheet. The condition can be easily corrected by draining and then injecting air into the storage tank.

Some types of pumping systems have an air-charger apparatus that introduces air into the tank with each cycle in order to avoid waterlogging. Also, some pre-pressurized tanks claim to achieve a permanent separation of air and water by means of a plastic or rubber diaphragm or bag, but these tanks should be checked for waterlogging as well. The diaphragm or bag may be faulty.

Moreover, in most areas of the country the storage tank should be insulated to prevent condensation during the summer months. Some tanks show signs of deterioration due to excessive rusting, a condition caused by moisture condensation on the tank over the years. Depending on the degree of deterioration, the tank may require replacement or scraping, repainting and insulation.

North Dakota Registration (HB 1507enacted in 2005) states the requirements for home inspector registration and license renewal procedures. Applicants must be at least 18 years old, have submitted proof of errors and omissions insurance coverage in the amount of $100,000, and have paid a $200 fee. The law exempts applicants that perform home inspections for residential buildings located outside the corporate limits of any city or located in a city with a population under three thousand from being required to carry errors and omissions insurance in the amount of $100,000. The bill provides a penalty for home inspectors that fail to register, making any individual that provides a home inspection without registration guilty of a class B misdemeanor. Also states that an applicant shall submit proof of completion of an examination offered by the American Society of Home Inspectors, the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors, the Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors, the National Association of Home Inspectors, or the International Code Council. For more information, including registration forms, go to the Home Inspector page at the North Dakota Secretary of State Web site or call 701-328-2900 or e-mail sos@state.nd.us.

North Dakota Home Inspector

Robert R. Kramer, CRI
Home Sweet Home Inspections, LLP
Grand Forks, ND 58201
(218) 779-2288
hshinspections@hotmail.com
http://www.homesweethomeinspections.net
NAHI CRI

A Well-Pumping Systems Inspection is designed to ensure the well-pumping system and all its components are working properly. If domestic water is not supplied by a utility company, it will be supplied by a private well-pumping system basically consisting of a well pump, a storage tank and a pressure switch. Part of the water hitting the surface of the earth as rain, snow, hail or sleet seeps into the ground and percolates down until it reaches an impermeable rock strata through which it cannot penetrate.

After reaching the impermeable rock, the water flows along the strata until it eventually reaches the ocean or a river. The underground stream is very slow, as the water flows through the pores and cracks of rock formations, sometimes surfacing along the way as a river or lake. The water composing this underground flow is called groundwater, and its top surface is commonly referred to as the water table.

Well-Pumping Systems Inspection – What to Watch Out For

Because of the proximity of the surface, shallow wells are vulnerable to contamination from cesspools, barnyard manure, malfunctioning septic systems, industrial waste disposal and so on. Deep wells are less vulnerable to such contamination, but they can still be polluted.

Bacterial and chemical pollutants move downward in the soil until they hit the water table and then flow with the groundwater. The soil filters small suspended solids and allows large pollutant particles to settle out, acting as a natural water purifier for bacterial contamination. In addition, the life span of bacterial pollutants is usually short in the unfavorable conditions found in the soil, so they tend to die after a short period of time.

On the other hand, chemical pollution of the water source can persist for several years. For instance, a recent article revealed that a toxic chemical solvent called trichlorethylene (TCE) was contaminating the water supply of 17 private wells. The solvent is used for thinning paint or removing grease, but if inhaled or ingested in high concentrations it can cause serious neurological problems. The source of contamination in this case could not be determined, but the local health commissioner indicated that he thought it was the result of TCE being dumped in the area many years ago, before the respective houses were built.

It may be that water with a foul taste or odour is actually potable, while water that is very clear and has a good taste is polluted. Unfortunately, it is impossible to tell whether it is polluted or not just be tasting or looking at it. As a precautionary measure, well water should be tested once a year for bacterial and chemical pollutants. If the house you are interested in has a private well-pumping system, have the water analyzed before closing the contract. After the purchase is final, schedule a Well-Pumping Systems Inspection at least once a year.

North Carolina Licensure

In order to become licensed as an associate home inspector, an individual must pass a licensing examination prescribed by the Board, have a high school diploma or its equivalent, and be affiliated with or intend to be affiliated with a licensed home inspector and submit a sworn statement by the licensed home inspector with whom the applicant is or intends to be affiliated certifying that the licensed home inspector will actively supervise and train the applicant.

For more information, contact the Inspector License Board at (919) 662-4480, (919) 662-4414 fax.

The General Statutes and the Administrative Code are meant to be used together.

North Carolina Home Inspector

Lee R. Floyd, CRI
WIN Home Inspection – Lake Norman
Mooresville, NC 28117
(704) 662-6513
lfloyd@wini.com
http://www.wini.com/LakeNorman
NAHI CRI
NC# 2506

Steven P. Lewter, CRI
Tri County Home Inspection DBA: Pillar To Post
Clayton, NC 27520
(919) 625-8283
steve.lewter@pillartopost.com
http://www.pillartopost.com
NAHI CRI
NC# 1952

Richard D. Kinsey
Western Carolina Home Inspection, LLC
Murphy, NC 28906
(828) 837-5407
wchomeinspections@frontier.com
Regular Member
NC# 831

Ken Hartman
Durham, NC 27712
(201) 704-0301
kendue1@hotmail.com
Associate Member

Drainpipes are generally made of cast or galvanized iron, copper, lead or plastic (PEX). Very often, the drainage system will consist of a combination of the different types of pipes. In the distribution system using copper and iron pipes together causes problems, but in the drainage system these problems do not exist, so the combination is acceptable.

The drainpipes are empty for most of the day. The wastes flow down the drain by means of gravity, consequently the main house drain in the basement must have a steady downward pitch leading directly to the sewer or septic tank.

When performing a drainage pipes inspection, look at the drain line. If there is a low point along the length of the pipe, a problem exists because the low point in the pipe will allow grease and sewage solids to settle and eventually block the pipe. This condition is a violation of the plumbing code and should be recorded on your worksheet for later correction. In addition, when inspecting the drainpipes, look for signs of past and current problems such as cracked and patched sections, inadequate pitch and leakage.

Very often, prospective buyers are interested in building a bathroom in the basement. This is not a problem, but it is difficult to handle the drainage, which must flow by gravity. If the house drain is connected to the sewer at a level above the basement floor, the wastes from the fixtures will have to be pumped up to the house drain so they can then flow to the sewer.

If the house has a bathroom in the basement, check to see if the waste water drainage discharges into a sewer ejector tank, normally located in an unfinished area of the basement. The tank is installed below the floor, therefore the only portions visible will be the top cover and the associated discharge and vent pipes. Check to see whether the cover is gasketed and tightly secured to the tank, and whether there are adequate seals around the pipe penetrations.

Moreover, there should also be a gate valve and a check valve on the discharge line, A float switch controls the ejector pump. To check the operation of the pump, flush the toilet and let water run in the sink until the pump is activated. Another method is to use a specifically designed toilet that can lift the wastes about 10 feet without the use of a pump, however most building codes do not approve this approach.

When the house drain is located below the basement floor slab, you will have to break up sections of the floor to connect the fixture drains to the house. To minimize the installation costs, the proposed bathroom should be located near the existing drain line.

New York Licensure

There are two routes to obtaining a license. An applicant must complete 140 hours of approved training, including 40 hours of unpaid inspection experience under the direct supervision of a licensed inspector, or have 100 hours of paid or unpaid inspection experience under the direct supervision of a licensed inspector. The applicant must also pass an approved written exam. Additionally, there are grandfathering provisions in the law that recognize the value of prior experience. To receive a license under this provision, an inspector must have inspected at least 100 homes within the last two years and pass an approved exam, or have inspected at least 250 homes for compensation and have been a practicing inspector for at least three years, prior to the enforcement of this law.

The law requires that a licensed home inspector maintain appropriate general liability insurance.

Finally, Under the Duty of Care provisions, every home inspector must provide a written report to the client, indicating what components and systems were observed, and must maintain the client’s wishes for confidentiality. The inspector may not do repairs on a home he/she has inspected for real estate sales purposes, inspect homes in which the inspector may have a financial interest, pay referral fees to agents or sellers, or inspect homes when payment is contingent upon closing, or pre-established or prescribed findings.

For more information contact Keith W. Stack, Deputy Secretary of State for Business and Licensing Services, New York State Department of State Division of Licensing Services, (518) 474-4429, (518) 473-6648 fax, e-mail licensing@dos.state.ny.us.

The most common types of pipes are made of copper, brass and galvanized iron, but most communities now allow the use of plastic (PEX) pipes as well, for both hot- and cold-water distribution. When performing a distribution piping inspection, trace and inspect all of the exposed water pipes in the basement.

There is a branch takeoff pipe leading to the domestic water heater, and if the house is heated by steam or hot water, there will also be a cold or hot takeoff leading to the boiler. In time, cold-water copper and brass pipes may take on a darker color than the hot-water pipes. Also, in some cases, sections of cold piping might be “sweating”, but this is not a problem condition.

Such “sweating” is actually condensation and can easily be eliminated by insulating the pipes or using a dehumidifier to reduce the amount of moisture in the air. On the other hand, indications of aging and deterioration are of particular concern. Look particularly for signs of past and current leakage around fittings and valves, and also look for mineral deposits, corrosion and patched sections.

If you find iron pipes, make an estimate of the amount and consider their replacement, because the presence of galvanized iron pipes and fittings in a copper and brass plumbing system is a potential problem. Copper pipes often take in a greenish cast, especially around the fittings. This condition may look as if caused by water leaking from the joint, but it actually caused, more often than not, by the soldering flux. A leak usually appears as an encrustation of mineral deposits around the joint.

Brass pipes found in residential structures will typically be “red brass” or “yellow brass”, but the first type is not really red, but more of a yellowish brown. Yellow-brass water pipes are more vulnerable to corrosion and dezincification – zinc leaching out of the brass into the water – than red-brass pipes.

Yellow brass pipes have a projected life span of about 40 years, while red-brass pipes can last for 75 years or more. The threaded joint, however, is the weakest part of a brass pipe. With some older yellow-brass pipes, the threads are paper thin and if force is applied to one of the pipes (with a wrench during some repair work or simply by leaning on the pipe) the joint can easily rupture.

Weak joints can usually be detected by a slight encrustation of mineral deposits. If you see encrusted joints on brass pipes, start anticipating repair or replacement of those sections.

New Jersey Licensure

All home inspectors are required to:
1) complete high school or its equivalent;
2) serve as a licensed associate inspector for at least one year;
3) perform at least 250 inspections;
4) carry $500,000 in insurance; and
5) pass the National Home Inspector Examination.

Inspectors do not have to be a member or candidate of ASHI in order to take the exam. In order to become a licensed associate home inspector under the law, an inspector must:
1) perform at least 50 inspections in the presence of a licensed inspector; and
2) pass the National Home Inspector Examination.

In 2003, Public Law 2003, Chapter 77 was passed, amending the grandfathering requirements and extending the grandfathering window by one year, until June 30, 2004. Home Inspectors now have until December 31, 2005 to obtain their licenses.

In 2005, Public Law 2005, Chapter 201 was passed. The law states that to be eligible for home inspector licensure an applicant has two options:
(1) successfully complete an approved course of study not less than 180 hours, as prescribed by the State Board of Professional Engineers and Land Surveyors, after consultation with the State Department of Education, which shall include not less than 40 hours of unpaid field-based inspections in the presence of and under the direct supervision of a licensed home inspector; or
(2) perform not less than 250 fee-paid home inspections in the presence of and under the direct supervision of a licensed home inspector. The licensed home inspector who oversees these inspections must take full responsibility for the inspection and any report produced. In addition, the law stipulates that as a condition for home inspector biennial license renewal, an individual shall complete 40 credit hours of continuing education.

For more information, contact the NJ Home Inspection Advisory Committee at (973) 504-6460.

The inlet service is generally made if copper, brass of galvanized iron. In some older homes, however, the pipe may be made of lead. A lead pipe can be easily detected by the type of joint between the sections. Lead pipes have wiped lead joints that appear as a spherical bulge in a horizontal section. Usually there is a joint near the foundation wall. If you do not see a joint, scratch the surface of the pipe (gently). If the pipe is made of lead, the surface will be relatively soft and the scratch will expose an area with a silvery-gray color.

A lead water pipe might be acceptable from a pluming point of view, but it can also be a potential health hazard. Depending on the quality of water, some of the lead might dissolve out. The amount of lead a person can safely absorb is limited and cumulative, therefore the maximum tolerance level can be reached and exceeded by drinking this water over an extended period of time.

If you find a lead inlet pipe, it is recommended to have the water analyzed for lead content. In many communities, the local heath department will do this testing for free or for a nominal charge. If the lead content is high, the pipe should be replaced as soon as possible. Note that replacing the water inlet pipe is not the responsibility of the water company, the homeowner must support all expenses.

Lead piping aside, check the water flow from the fixtures. If the water flow from the plumbing fixtures is low but the piping in the house is good, meaning that all copper or brass pipes and fittings have no leaks, the problem will likely be caused by a constriction in the inlet water supply or low pressure at the street main.

In other cases, the old water pipes have been completely replaced with new copper pipes, but the old galvanized inlet pipe has not been removed. Under normal soil and water conditions, this pipe should last for about forty years, but as the pipe ages, rust deposits build up on the inside and restrict the flow. Moreover, a galvanized iron pipe will eventually corrode from the outside and leak. Depending on the length of the line and the ground conditions, replacement costs can range from several hundreds to several thousands of dollars.

When a utility company supplies the domestic water, the inlet pipe will lead directly to the house distribution piping. Depending on the quality of water, in some areas there might be a water softener or a filter between the supply and distribution piping, though normally you will not find a storage tank between them. However, if you do find such a tank, there may be a low-pressure condition at the street main.

Nevada Certification

An applicant for certification as a certified residential Inspector :
(a) must furnish proof to the Division that he has successfully completed
1) not less than 40 hours of academic Instruction In subjects related to structural Inspections In courses approved by the Division or equivalent experience as an Inspector, and
2) an examination approved by the Division,
and (b) must possess a high school diploma or Its equivalent.

Applicants must submit to the Division a log of Inspections performed for a fee on a form supplied by the Division. Applicants must submit proof that they have errors and omissions insurance of at least $100,000 and general liability insurance of at least $100,000.

For more information, contact the Department of Business and Industry, Real Estate Division
(775) 687-4280 phone
(775) 687-4868 fax

Nevada Home Inspector Directory

Robert F. Knauff, CRI
Beacon Inspection Services
Henderson, NV 89052
(702) 205-3167
Bob@BeaconInspectionServices.com
http://www.BeaconInspectionServices.com
NAHI CRI

Peter Hawley, CRI
HomeCheck Home Inspection
Las Vegas, NV 89136
(702) 400-6889
peter@homechecknv.com
http://www.homechecknv.com
NAHI CRI
IOS-0000968-GEN

Interior Plumbing Pipes Inspection – Mixed Plumbing

Check to see whether the piping is a mixture of copper, brass and galvanized sections. Even if there is no noticeable drop in water flow, it is best to avoid mixed plumbing because the resulting galvanic corrosion at the joints will eventually cause leaks. When water oozing out of the fitting evaporates, it leaves mineral deposits on the pipe, resembling some white encrustations. Deposits on this joint self-seal after the leakage, but it is only a temporary correction – the deposits can come loose at any time. To properly correct this condition, the iron section must be replaced with a pipe of copper or brass.

PEX (plastic) piping, a.k.a. tubing is made from cross-linked high-density polyethylene. Cross-linking is a chemical reaction that permanently links together polymer chains of polyethylene. PEX is now accepted by most municipalities and can be used for all potable water-supply lines. Compared to metal piping, PEX has a number of advantages: it is flexible, it will not corrode nor develop pin holes, it has fewer connections and fittings and it is also both easier and faster to install.

Polybutylene pipe is another plastic pipe that has been used in the construction of millions of homes throughout the United States between 1978 and 1995. In the 1980s, however, complaints started to appear, claiming that leaks were developing around the fittings and in some cases the pipes were splitting.

In some cases, the leaks were caused by improper installation such as overstressing the pipe at joints and fittings, and overbending it into a tight curve. Most of the leaks, however, were caused by the deterioration of the pipe and/or the plastic fittings. Finally, it was determined that polybutylene pipe reacts with oxidants, such as chlorine, normally found in tap water. In order to avoid problems with your piping system, schedule an Interior Plumbing Pipes Inspection at least once a year.

Mississippi Licensure

To qualify for a license under this act, a person must:
1) have successfully completed high school or attained an equivalency degree,
2) be at least 21 years old,
3) have successfully completed an approved course of study of at least 60 hours, which may include field work as required by the Commission,
4) pass the National Home Inspector Examination, and
5) provide a certificate of insurance for errors and omissions and general liability. There is also a three-year limitation included for clients seeking to recover damages from an inspection, a reciprocity provision, and a grandfather clause included in the act.

For more information, including forms, education providers and more, contact the Real Estate Commission (Home Inspector Regulatory Board) at (601) 932-9191.

When inspecting the walls, windows, trim and doors within a house, conduct an Exterior Caulking Inspection as well, looking for any cracked and open joints. All exterior joints should be caulked (sealed) so that they are both watertight and airtight. If they are not properly caulked, wind-driven rain can enter and cause wood members to rot, metal ties to rust and masonry sections to crack and chip.

Moreover, if exterior joints are not properly caulked, cold air can infiltrate the house, boosting your heating costs. The most vulnerable joints for cracking are the ones that join two dissimilar materials, for instance a joint between a brick facing and a non-masonry sidewall. Dissimilar materials generally have different expansion and contraction characteristics, often causing the joints to crack and open. All such joints should be sealed with a non-shrinking flexible caulking compound.

Exterior Caulking Inspection – Types of Caulking Compounds

There are several types of caulking compounds, but the four most popular ones are oil base, acrylic latex base, butyl-rubber base and silicone base.

• Oil base caulking compounds are the cheapest of the four types, and will readily bond to most surfaces, be they wood, masonry or metal. On the other hand, they tend to dry and crack after a short period of time, so they are not very durable. Generally, joints sealed with this type of caulking require periodic maintenance.
• Acrylic latex caulking compounds are medium-priced, flexible and durable, estimated to last for many years.
• Butyl-rubber caulks are also medium priced and durable, and they can be painted. On the other hand, they have a high shrinkage level, an acceptable characteristic when caulking narrow cracks and inside corners.
• Silicone-base caulks are the most expensive of the four types. They are very pliable and great for sealing joints subject to movement, but no caulking compound is ideally suited for every applications. Still, this type of caulking is considered by many the best choice when it comes to cost, durability and ease of application.

When inspecting the exterior joints, look in particular at the condition of the caulking. Check for any cracked, chipped, crumbly and missing caulking compound, and record on your worksheet the location of joints that need re-caulking. An Exterior Caulking Inspection can prevent problems and costly repairs.

Storm Windows Inspection – Types of Storm Windows

A storm sash is removable, typically made of wood, containing a fixed-pane window. It fits over the window either on the inside or on the outside, depending on how the window opens. Most commonly, storm sashes are installed on the outside of older double-hung windows. However, because they cannot be opened to allow breezes during the warmer months, they are not desirable for year-round use. Generally, storm windows are taken off in early spring and reinstalled in late fall.

A storm panel is similar in appearance to a storm sash, but is typically mounted in a narrow metal frame and is attached to the movable window sash rather than fitted over the entire window opening. Because they are attached directly to the movable sash, storm panels do not interfere with the window operation and they do not have to be removed during the warmer months.

Lastly, combination units are storm and screen sashes combined in a single frame. The unit is mounted over the outside of the window. In addition to reducing heat loss, a combination unit is also more effective in reducing air infiltration around the window joints. Combination storm and screen windows are available in two- and three-track units.

With two-track units, the outside track contains the storm sash, which can slide up and down. In a triple-track unit, each of the two storm panes and the screen have a separate track. Combination storm and screen units are generally installed on double-hung and horizontal siding windows. Since they do not interfere with the operation of the movable sash, they are usually not removed once installed.

Combination units are available in steel, aluminum or solid vinyl. The aluminum frame with a baked enamel finish looks very similar to a vinyl frame, but you can tell the difference by looking at an edge or joint. The aluminum edge will have a silvery color, while the vinyl edge will be the same color as the frame.

In time, many aluminum frames with a mill finish are affected by weathering, showing a pitting, corroded and degraded appearance. An anodized or baked enamel finish provides greater protection against weathering. Combination units made of steel tend to rust over the years, requiring periodic maintenance.

Maryland Trade practice act enacted in 1992. Maryland law requires home inspectors to disclose professional qualifications and the scope of the inspection within the home inspection contract. The law also requires home inspectors to conduct home inspections in accordance with the standards of practice set forth by a professional home inspection trade association such as ASHI or the National Association of Home Inspectors.

If the house is heated through panels, make sure you schedule a Panel Heating Inspection before the contract is final. A popular means of heating using a forced-hot-water system is embedding the distribution piping into the walls, floors or ceilings and let those panels function as radiators. The heat from the distribution piping is conducted to the surface of the panels, which in turn heat the room by radiation and convection.

This type of forced-hot-water system produces a very uniform temperature distribution, and is particularly effective when the heating panel is located in the floor slab in a house without a basement.

Panel Heating Inspection – Safety and Operational Controls

Hot-water systems also have safety and operational controls, in addition to the thermostat. In a simple forced-hot-water system without individual zones, a high-temperature limit prevents the boiler water from exceeding a preset temperature, and there is a controller for the circulating pump. The circulating pump can operate in one of three modes, depending on the system design: constant-running circulator, aquastat-controlled circulator and relay-controlled circulator.

In the first mode, the constant-running-circulator, the pump is energized by a manual power switch and operates continuously all throughout the heating season. When the thermostat calls for heat, it fires the burner that heats the boiler. However, the circulating pump must be manually shut off when the heating season is over.

If the homeowner forgets to shut the pump, it will run all summer. This is rather wasteful when it comes to electrical energy, but on the other hand, the waste may compensate the fact that intermittently operated circulating pumps tend to break down sooner than continuously operated ones. The constant starting and stopping causes the bearings to wear out sooner. When it comes to the costs of installation, a constant-operating circulating pump is the least expensive because there is no relay or temperature controller. Moreover, it can be converted to either aquastat-controlled circulator or relay-controlled.

Panel Heating Inspection – Aquastat Controlled Circulator or Relay-Controlled

In the aquastat-controlled circulator mode, the thermostat will control the burner just like with the constant-running circulator. When the boiler water reaches a preset temperature, generally about 120 degrees F, the circulator pump begins to operate. After the thermostat achieves the desired temperature and shuts off the burner, the circulator continues to operate until the water temperature drops below the temperature setting of the circulator control.

In the relay-controlled mode, the thermostat simultaneously activates the circulating pump and the burner. When the thermostat reaches the desired temperature, it will simultaneously shut off the burner and the circulating pump.

Radiators Inspection – Basic Types of Radiators

The first type, freestanding cast iron radiators, are found mostly in older homes. However, unless an old home is in the process of being restored, a freestanding radiator is commonly considered undesirable.

A popular trend nowadays is to replace the old radiators with the newer finned-tube baseboard radiators. Baseboard convector radiators are generally preferred because they distribute the heat more effectively than cast-iron or freestanding convector radiators, and they are also less obvious.

Because they distribute the heat near the floor, such baseboard radiators can easily achieve an even temperature throughout the room. Natural convection causes the heated air to rise and warm the outside wall.

During the Radiators Inspection, check all radiators within the house for ease of operation and efficiency. If you come across any issues, record the condition on your worksheet for future correction.

Kentucky Licensure ( KRS 198B.700) enacted in 2004. (The Kentucky Home Inspector Licensing Law requires home inspectors to be licensed and defines the requirements of licensure. An inspector must be at least 18 years old, have a high school diploma or GED equivalent, complete a board-approved training program, pass an examination approved by the board, and submit a certificate of insurance. Inspections must be conducted in accordance with the standards of practice of ASHI or NAHI or their equal. The law also establishes license renewal criteria, including continuing education of 30 hours for two years. Licensed inspectors must carry liability insurance in the amount of $250.000.

John Harnage
HMR Inspection LLC
Bowling Green, KY 42104
(270) 282-3194
jharnage@hmrinspections.com
http://www.hmrinspectionsllc.com
Associate Member
KY# 2299

David K. Rice
Bluegrass Property Consultants
Nicholasville, KY 40356
(859) 351-3869
bluegrasspropertyconsultants@gmail.com
Associate Member

Plumbing Wall Hatch Inspection – Avoid a Plumbing Disaster

When homeowners use a wrench to install or repair pipes, tubs and toilets, they not only risk leaks, but also their finances and, generally, they risk a mechanical disaster. To avoid a plumbing catastrophe, bare in mind these three essential principles:

First of all, avoid galvanic as much as possible. Copper and galvanized steel are often mixed in residential water systems, with nothing separating them except for a tiny thread sealant or Teflon plumbing tape. The galvanic connection between copper and steel can be trouble-free for years, or the steel plumbing can begin to corrode as soon as the connection is tight. In this case, connect copper pipe to galvanized steel using a plumbing fitting called a dielectric union. The fitting uses a steel collar on the steel side, a copper collar on the copper side and isolation bushings to keep the two parts separate.

Second, always make sure to use the right connector, and keep in mind that gas lines count as plumbing too. Connecting a new gas range or dryer to an existing gas line may seem like a simple task, but the job can be easily messed up when you try to hook up a flexible gas connector to the line and find that the connector does not fit or you cannot make the connection gas-tight, regardless of how tight you make the connection.

This is a thread compatibility issue, usually caused by a mismatch between the iron pipe supplying gas and the fitting on the end of the flexible connector you want to use to bring the fuel to the appliance. In this case, the best and simplest solution is to buy a universal connection kit for a dryer or for a gas range. These kits come with a range of adapters to help you make the transition from the pipe and fitting supplying the gas to whatever appliance will be using it.

Third, find out exactly where your pipes are so you do not puncture a copper or plastic supply or drain by accident, pounding nails and driving screws in. To determine where the pipes are, buy a sensor that detects both pipes and wiring. Other solutions include checking the attic or basement (if unfinished) to see where the pipes are, or carefully cutting a test hatch to find plumbing in the walls.

Indiana Licensure (P.L. 145 enacted In 2004). P.L. 145 established the Home Inspectors Licensing Board to regulate home inspectors and associate home inspectors. The Board shall be responsible for setting the fees for licenses, investigating complaints concerning licensees and establishing continuing education requirements. The Board shall adopt a code of ethics, standards for competent performance of home inspections and standards for inspection reports.

Checking Water Pressure and Flow

Open two faucets to check the cold- and the hot-water flow separately, and flush the toilet at the same time. If the flow seems to be less than it should, record the condition on your worksheet. A low water flow may be caused by a kink in the supply pipe, small-diameter distribution piping or low water pressure at the service entry. Most often, however, low flow is caused by a decrease in the inside diameter of one or more sections of pipe supplying the fixtures.

Moreover, old galvanized iron piping is particularly bad for water flow. Besides the mineral deposits, with this type of piping there is often a buildup of rust that further constricts the flow. When you find low water flow, look for galvanized iron piping – especially in older homes.

In some cases, the house may have been partially re-piped, with some iron sections replaced with copper or brass. Mixing iron in a copper plumbing system is not recommended, for two reasons: even a small section of iron pipe whose inside diameter has been reduced by a buildup of mineral deposits and rust will lower the flow of water discharging from a faucet. Second, iron is a ferrous metal, while copper is a nonferrous one. When ferrous and nonferrous metals come in contact with one another, a galvanic action takes place between them. This will accelerate the corrosion of the plumbing system at the point of contact.

Lastly, in homes that have water supplied by a well-pumping system rather than a local utility, the water discharging from the faucet may have a pulsating flow. This condition is caused by a rapidly fluctuating water pressure as a result of a waterlogged pressure tank.